09 November, 2008

Dolphin Island

I have been to Dolphin Island three times now. The first time I went was because two dives I hadn't done were part of the trip as an option for divers.

You may have noticed that I am a dolphin lover. The main reason I hadn't gone to Dolphin Island before was because the people who run Dolphin Island also export live dolphins. While I think it's great that people all over the world can see live dolphins and appreciate what magnificent animals they are, I don't believe in transporting dolphins in a manner in which they are injured or killed. That is probably the only political comment you will read on this blog.

The trips I have done include the two hours or so boat trip from Honiara and back, a BBQ lunch, feeding the dolphins and swimming and/or snorkeling with them.

When we tied up at the wharf on arriving at the island we were greeted by staff in smart matching shirts. We were taken to a large leaf hut where the itinerary of the day was described.

There were three dolphin feeding sessions. The guests were shown how to feed the dolphins in the manner in which they had been trained. Each dolphin had been trained to go to one of the two feeding posts. I sat back and watched from the leaf hut. After the feeding session, people were allowed to go into the main pond and swim and snorkel with the dolphins. I felt very uneasy about that.

I watched the people and the dolphins swimming around. It didn't take me long to realise the dolphins were swimming up to the people, having a look and swimming off before going up to someone else to check them out. People took it in turns to swim in the pond with the dolphins in small groups. As each new group entered the water, I watched the obviously startled snorkelers turn this way and that as a dolphin swam past.

I was relieved - the dolphins were enjoying the visitors!

I donned my snorkeling gear and went for a swim with my favourite animals. I snorkeled around for a few minutes peering through the silty water, trying to get my first glimpse. I could hear the dolphins' calls, seemingly very close. I turned my head to the direction I thought I heard that call, and another direction for another call. I eventually swam in a circle trying to spot the dolphins. Suddenly a dolphin appeared out of the silt and swam past me only inches away. I turned to follow it with my head, and then it was gone. Suddenly another dolphin appeared and laughed at me as it disappeared. I gave up trying to spot them. I just drifted around waiting for the dolphins to come for a chat. Sometimes they swam past slowly, chattering away, tilted slightly to one side. I imagine they were saying something like "Giggle, you humans look so funny and awkward in the water, giggle."

A couple of the dolphins taught one of the guests a game. They swam around her in circles, gradually increasing their speed until she couldn't keep up with them. They then stopped the game for a moment and started again, and again, and again. Later in the day they tried to teach her to stand on her head in the water - a feat she tried but just couldn't master, to the obvious enjoyment of both human and dolphin.

On the next trip I took my son.The thrill he got from snorkeling with the dolphins and seeing and hearing them up so close was priceless. He stayed with his head in the water for ages - about three-quarters of an hour, until the dolphins had obviously finished their game.

Later he sat with two other children on the floating walkway next to a pen which held three dolphins which had recently been brought in from the wild. The children patted their hands gently on the water and the wild dolphins swam up to them. Then, to my amazement, the dolphins lifted their heads out of the water and let the children stroke their heads. What an awesome experience.

On the third trip I was sitting on the floating walkway beside the main pond trying - unsuccessfully - to get a photo of the dolphins teasing a swimmer. I looked down as two dolphins surfaced beside me. A mother and new baby, and the baby was suckling! Another wow moment. This time I was fast enough with the camera to catch them as they swam away.







Where is it and how do I get there?

Dolphin Island is beside the bay where Tulagi is on Ngele, about two hours north of Honiara by boat.

Invader Charters runs day trips periodically. Tulagi Dive can take visitors there as part of the diving tour. I am sure there are other means of getting there, but I don't know who runs them.

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